R & R: Safari in Zambia

After four busy days in Malawi we were looking forward to a change of scenery (and pace). Back when Matt was invited to Malawi, we had decided if we were going to go all the way to Africa we would definitely take the opportunity to go on a safari. Prior to this trip, a safari wasn't high on my travel-priority list; mostly because of the expense. But as the trip got closer, we both became more and more excited. This whole experience was full of adventures unlike any others we'd ever had. (Who would've thought we would travel somewhere that didn't promise us beautiful beaches!?!)

I'm not sure how to explain it, but being in Zambia, although still very African, felt much less destitute than being in Malawi. There were still huts and dirt roads and random animals everywhere, but it just seemed more organized and tidy.

When we signed up for this trip we weren't sure if we would be camping or staying in huts, or what we would eat. Matt spoke with people at work who had been on this trip and they said the safari was awesome, but there were a few different accommodations and your experience would greatly differ depending on where you were assigned to stay. I packed some of our protein bars and dried fruit that we had been surviving on in Malawi, just in case. We were in for a welcome surprise.

Ready to leave Malawi for Zambia. Blake Roney's private plane in the background.

Our sweet little 12 seater.

The flight was about an hour and we flew extremely low the entire way. Africa looks really green right here.

Our pilot landed us safe and sound at Mfuwe International airport. No one's luggage was lost!
I think we were the only plane arriving all day.

Just wandering around next to the runway and enjoying the warmer temperature.

There was only one employee going back and forth between Customs and Immigration so it took the 10 of us at least an hour to get our passports stamped and officially get into the country.

Loading up into our Land Cruiser. Hold on and get ready for a long, windy and bumpy ride.
No windshields, no seatbelts, no doors. 

Matt, Michael and Lisa Anderson from Perth, Australia, and Gary Garrett from Provo.

We stopped briefly at an arts and crafts school and shop. Matt and I bought a really cool wooden stool here.**

Baboons crossing. Here is one of about 50 that were welcoming us to the National Park

After a couple hours of driving on an unpaved highway we turned onto rockier dirt roads and started seeing animals everywhere! At first, we were super excited to see the Antelope and baboons, but later tired of them because they were so common. We wanted to see the lions, tigers, elephants, & giraffes...

Just around the corner, a little Elephant family was leaving their mud bath.

Wait up!

These gate posts were good news. They were the "entrance" to our Lodge. Only a few more kilometers and we would see where we would be staying.

I was unprepared for how beautiful and luxurious our lodge would be. We learned that is was originally built in the late 1970's for the President of Zambia. 

The main entrance & gathering area (where we parked, hung out, ate our meals) was all open air. When we arrived, we were given an orientation. It was a short walk to our bedroom. But, at night, animals roam freely through this property. For that reason, we were not allowed out of our rooms after sunset unless we were with a rifle-carrying, armed escort. During the orientation we were told that there were torches in every room for personal use. Matt and I, as well as the Andersons, were aware that torches were the English (and Aussie) term for flashlights. But, our friend Gary Garrett (from Provo) wasn't familiar with that term and he fully expected to be using a fire-on-a-stick torch. We got a lot of laughs out of that. 

Matt and Mike just learned the Lodge had free wi-fi.

This place was incredible. They had afternoon tea waiting for us when we arrived - finger sandwiches, vegetables, tiny cakes--all fresh and safe to eat. We felt guilty being in such a beautiful lodge so soon after leaving Malawi. The woman who managed the Lodge, Lindsey, was from England. She and her husband had lived in Zambia for nine years. We never met her husband because he spent several months out in the "parks" rescuing animals from poachers and traps, as well as leading safari tours.  Lindsey and her little team of cooks and caretakers pampered us in every conceivable way. She answered all of our questions and treated us like old friends.

Feather pillows, animal skin rugs, clean water... I will not be ready to leave this place in only 2 days!

I never did take a bath, but just knowing I could if I wanted to? That is luxury.

At breakfast we learned that during the night there were baboons fighting with zebras and an elephant wandered through the entrance.
I was disappointed I slept through it all. I was hoping to use my torch :)

The uninterrupted view from the breakfast table looked out across the national park. There were several antelope out grazing while we ate.

 Matt and I could hardly wait to give Lisa this amazing birthday card that we bought in Malawi. It looked like a valentine and played ear piercing music when you opened it. It was hideous. I wish I'd taken more pictures of it. Lisa totally gave the response we were hoping for.

Attention to detail was impeccable. We were heading out on our sunrise safari and there were wool blankets on every seat and canteens of hot chocolate, coffee and tea.

It was a crisp morning, and I was not feeling well this day.
I had a fever and the chills, but I didn't want to miss out on the morning safari. 

Good morning, water buffalo.

Good morning, mama & baby.
Our driver taught us so much about each of the animals. He said that elephants have very poor vision, but they can smell you coming from a long ways away. Usually when we would get close to the elephants they would raise up their trunks and turn slowly from side to side. It looked like one of those periscopes that submarines send up out of the water to look around.

Good morning Hippo.
I can totally relate to how s l o w l y  this beast gets up in the morning.

I decided Hippos are just giant pigs. I will have to research that to verify it, but they really reminded me of pigs.

Hippo seemed to enjoy being pecked by the bird. I guess they would need someone else to scratch their backs! The hippo closest to the camera had his ears going crazy, whapping back and forth. It was like he was trying to tell the bird to hurry up and come pick all the bugs off of him.

Hippos walk across the bottom of the river. This group was totally under water and then just appeared! I guess they reached a shallow spot!

In the morning, it is much cooler, so the big cats come down from the trees and lay in the tall grass. We never knew if we would come around a tree and have a pride of lions right in front of us. It really added suspense to the long hours of driving around. Once, we passed another jeep of people who had just watched a lion attack and eat an antelope. They told us where to go to find it, but by the time we got there (only a couple minutes after them) the lion was gone and vultures were already there finishing off the carcass. It was easy to be grossed out, but I decided to hum "it's the cir-cle of life" from the Lion King, and it helped me feel better.

That dirt pile is actually a massive termite nest!

Nests. I thought they seemed more like vulture nests, but they were actually the nest of a very tiny bird that I cannot remember what their name is.

The remains of a hippo, I think.

Even the water buffalo are no match for the big cats.

On our evening safari. Lisa spots something in the distance. This whole experience feels like a dream.

Our driver sets out some afternoon tea. Lisa and Michael are the only ones on our jeep who drink coffee, tea and alcohol, so they were in luck!

Our driver, Prince. He was so knowledgable and so patient. He tried so hard to take us to the cats. He was an excellent tracker, and I know he was disappointed to not get us up close with a jaguar, tiger or lion. We did see a jaguar from very far away, but it was nighttime, and honestly, I didn't see it. He also found us a butter badger which he said was the most rare animal to ever see. He said it was very fierce and we all knew we should be excited to see it, but really? A butter badger? I've never even heard of that animal.
I wondered what Price's life was like when he wasn't driving safaris. I hoped he had a good income. He certainly was well educated and excellent at his job.

Notice the cat paw prints along side the tire prints. 

I'm pretty sure the zebras were my favorite.

This dude came right up to our jeep. 

Who knew water buffalo could give such evil stink-eye?

By evening I'm feeling much better, and enjoying our last night in Zambia. Thankfully Lindsey had some magical pills that cured me.
Because of the full moon, the predators would not hunt tonight. That means not much chance we will see those dang big cats. But, all in all we left with some amazing memories of exploring this part of Africa.

Cheers to our little safari group, under a full moon.

Morning again! These monkeys were so fast.

Another hideous wart hog. I liked them a little better if I called them Pumbas (from the Lion King.)

Symmetry at it's best.

Our driver spent as much time as he could searching for lions, tigers and panthers before taking us back to the airport. It was a little disappointing to not see those animals, but then again, we did see the butter badger! Totally rested and refreshed, we headed back to Malawi. The two and a half days in Zambia were literally out of this world.

**This is the stool we bought in Zambia.